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Monday, September 26, 2005

Simon Bolivar's Noble Tenerife Links

Statue of Simón Bolívar in the Plaza de la Libertad, Garachico

Simón Bolívar (1783-1830), the South American liberator, has tenuous links with the town of Garachico in Tenerife. His statue stands in the Plaza de la Libertad, Liberty Place (naturally). But exactly what that link is, seems to get lost among myths and tales.

Having been told and read various accounts that his mother (sometimes the story involves both parents) was born in Garachico, I later came across an account that suggested his grandmother emigrated from Garachico after the 1706 eruption that devastated the town. Whilst the eruption was certainly a reality (and its 300th anniversary celebrated in 2006), neither of those tales regarding Bolívar's immediate family are true.

Referring to a documented genealogical study of the Caracas, Venezuela, branch of the Blanco family, we discover that it was much earlier ancestors (great-great-great-great-grandparents, if my calculations are correct), Pedro Blanco Gerardts who married Beatriz Ponte Rebolledo in Garachico (Tenerife) on May 6, 1589 and who left Garachico, first for the Island of Margarita and, then establishing themselves in Caracas, in 1603. Clearly this was 100 years earlier than the previous account and, around 200 years before the Liberator himself was making a serious mark on world geography.

Interesting point is that Cristóbal de Ponte (a Jewish banker from Genoa) founded the town and port of Garachico (then the most important town and main port of the island) in 1496, after being granted land by the conqueror of Tenerife, Alonso Fernández de Lugo (in return because de Ponte had bankrolled de Lugo's military campaign). Cristóbal de Ponte was the great-grandfather of Beatriz Ponte Rebolledo. His son, Cristóbal de Ponte y Llarena, had been made the first Marquis de la Quinta Roja in the 17th century.  

The Marquis' 16th Century Manor-Palace has now been converted into Hotel La Quinta Roja, whilst the town's other historical Hotel San Roque was constructed by one of Cristóbal de Ponte's descendants in the 17th Century. The statue of Simón Bolivar that stands in Garachico's square, to the side of the Hotel La Quinta Roja, was given to the town by the Garachico "colony" in Venezuela, in 1970. It is the work of local Garachico sculptor, Juan Jaén and was inaugurated on the Anniversary of Bolivar's birth, July 24.

So, whilst it wasn't his parents or grandparents that various legends would have us believe, Simón Jose Antonio Bolívar y Palacios Blanco "El Libertador", had even more important, influential ancestors, who were from Garachico's, founding, noble families.

Speaking of nobles ... Apparently, according to Garachico historian, Carlos Acosta, Garachico used to have a whole street made of Carrara marble (lost under the flows of lava from Teide's 1706 eruption), which only the nobles were allowed to walk on - except Fridays - when they let the poor people walk across it to beg for alms. Big-hearted of them!

Saturday, September 24, 2005

Eating Canary Style

Papas arrugadas and sliced tomato

The traditional food of the Canary Islands is simple fayre with an interesting history, but this cuisine is not well-known outside of the archipelago. Canarian food is also healthy food (more so even than the much-acclaimed Mediterranean Diet), using simple ingredients to create dishes that are centuries old and steeped in tradition, yet just as fresh today.

Add to this many outside influences both to the gastronomy and to the culture in general; from Latin America, Europe, Africa ... and you arrive at what today is a very rich and diverse cuisine. Food is an important part of any culture and I don't think it's possible to get the real 'flavour' of somewhere without trying the local delicacies.

The best advice I have read on this subject came in an article (no longer online) at Wine X Magazine, entitled, "Flyin South For The Winter Canary Style", which was:

    "Just point, nod your head and look hungry."

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