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... the most detailed English language website on the island.

After more than 20 years, posts here will now only be occasional (see why) for big events such as Tenerife Carnaval, so please "Like" and follow our Facebook Page because that's where to see future updates.

Wednesday, 28 March 2007

Tenerife commemorates Los Rodeos tragedy

International Tenerife Memorial March 27, 1977
Image: Jesús Manuel Pérez Triana [CC0], via Wikimedia Commons

On the 30th Anniversary of the Tenerife Disaster on March 27th, 1977, Tenerife paid homage to the victims of the accident at Los Rodeos. Families of the those who died, as well as survivors of the tragedy and members of the island's authorities, celebrated a memorial service at the Auditorio de Tenerife. Karen Tafuri, who lost her mother, Jeanne Wilder, in the crash, spoke of her experience, in representation of victims from the United States. While, Jan Groenewoud, President of the Foundation for families of the victims, remembered the seven people - among them, both of his parents and two sisters - he lost on that date.

The 583 victims now have their Stairway to Heaven

An emotional homage was paid to the 583 victims of the crash yesterday afternoon, when the International Tenerife Memorial was inaugurated on the Mesa Mota mountain in La Laguna, Tenerife, overlooking the airport and site of the disaster. It was also revealed yesterday, that the Dutch artist, Rudi van de Wint, who designed the over 18 metres tall monument, sadly died shortly after completing it.

The Foundation Relatives Victims Tenerife donated the International Tenerife Memorial to the island's authorities. The Cabildo accepted the monument with gratitude: an artwork 18 metres tall designed by the Dutch artist Rudi van de Wint. The Corten steel monument arrived on the Canary island of Tenerife at the end of January, aboard ship from Flushing (Vlissingen).

The artwork, entitled 'De Wenteltrap' (literally translated, spiral staircase) - symbol of infinity - will serve as a monument to commemorate all the victims of the largest disaster in the history of civil aviation, which occurred on March 27, 1977 at Los Rodeos airport, Tenerife-Norte (TFN). KLM Boeing 747 flight number KL4805 crashed on the runway into a Boeing 747 of Pan American Airlines (Pan Am 1736). All 248 people aboard the KLM aircraft died; 335 of the 396 aboard the Pan Am aircraft perished, with 61 survivors.


INAUGURATION INTERNATIONAL TENERIFE MEMORIAL - MARCH 27 1977 - 2007 - English version from Int Tenerife-Memorial.org on Vimeo.

The monument was unveiled in the presence of Spanish, American and Dutch surviving relatives and government representatives. Prior to the formal dedication, for the first time since the disaster occurred 30 years ago there was an international memorial service in the Auditorio de Tenerife, in the capital, Santa Cruz. Dutch and Spanish heads of state have been invited to both ceremonies.

Air Traffic Controller speaks to the media for the first time

Fernando Azcúnaga, who was one of the three controllers on duty in the tower at Los Rodeos on that fateful day in 1977, has spoken to the media for the first time in these 30 years. Previously, he had refused to speak publicly, but finally conceded on the request of his wife. Azcúnaga talked of his frustration at not having been able to do anything.

Now 71 and retired in 2000, Azcúnaga is married and father of four children (one of whom died in a traffic accident). He now lives in Tegueste, in the north of Tenerife and runs a parquet flooring company. Although he considers himself a strong person, Azcúnaga tells how the disaster changed his character and how he felt very saddened. "It was not my fault, but I was implicated.", he says. The accident still moves him enormously and it is something he carries in his heart.

The insurance companies, he adds, harassed him in the aftermath of the crash. "There were a load of insurance companies and the easiest for them would be to put the blame on the controller so that everything would be paid by the Spanish Government", he says. (In 1977, ATC was still handled by the military in Spain.)

He has also spoken out about the rumour, reported on various occasions and included in certain documentaries, that the controllers were listening to a football match on the radio. This, Azcúnaga considers absurd. For one thing, Air Traffic Controllers work with headphones on, secondly, there is the evidence that in none of the tapes is there any sound of a goal or anything of the like.

Runway Safety Debated on Anniversary of Deadly Crash

Meanwhile yesterday, Robert Bragg, former Pan American World Airlines co-pilot, spoke to the National Transportation Safety Board at a safety forum in Washington, D.C., to recall the moment when his 747 was taxiing at Los Rodeos Airport and a KLM jumbo jet came barrelling down the runway for its take off.

Anecdote

Much has already been written about the entire chain of events that added up to allow this accident to happen, any one of which, if it hadn't occurred might have helped to prevent it from doing so ... If only it hadn't been foggy, if only there had been lights on the runway, ground radar (which Los Rodeos does now have), if only there hadn't been a terrorist bomb in Gran Canaria ... 

Nevertheless, there is one further piece of anecdotal information that I found at the foot of this article about the crash. I've never been able to confirm this information, but it is certainly ironic, if not a bit creepy, if it is indeed fact and, while it sounds like the kind of story that the English might tell about "Spanish builders", the thing is, I have only ever read this report in Spanish, it translates:
During the Second World War, Hitler insisted to Franco's regime on the construction of an aerodrome in Tenerife to give cover for his troops in North Africa. German technicians were sent to initiate studies for the design of the airport, which were later presented to the Spanish authorities. These latter decided to postpone the construction, but they held onto the plans made by the Germans, who in those days were considered as the experts in airport design and construction.

Some years later, after the end of the war, the Spanish authorities decided that it was time to construct the airport in Tenerife, for which they decided to resort to the valuable documents provided by the Germans. Amongst these was a map of the area, on which was clearly marked a great big red cross. The Spanish "supposed" that this marked the ideal location for the airport and, commenced its construction based on the German maps. What they did not know, is that the big red cross indicated the area where an airport should never be built.

Friday, 23 March 2007

Those dastardly British in Tenerife

1906 Plaza de la Candelaria during the visit of Alfonso XIII

The resorts on the south of Tenerife are, as everyone knows, full of British bars, with British names, run by Brits, serving the British clientele. In the island's capital, but that globalization in general has added sights like a McDonalds, a branch of The Body Shop and many other foreign businesses, Santa Cruz does still manage to put on a face of being a Spanish city port, even today.

Little more than a century previously, Santa Cruz had successfully repelled a British attack, but one hundred years ago, in 1906, Tenerife and, particularly Santa Cruz, may have seemed more British than it does now.

When King Alfonso XIII disembarked at the port of Santa Cruz on March 26th, 1906, it was the first ever visit of a Spanish monarch to the archipelago.

Later in that same year, on May 31, 1906, King Alfonso XIII married British Princess Victoria Eugenie of Battenberg (1887-1969) - a wedding marred by an assassination attempt - grandmother of King Juan Carlos. Victoria Eugenie was a niece of King Edward VII and a granddaughter of Queen Victoria, making the Spanish Royal Family direct descendants of Queen Victoria.

Perhaps this British link was the motivation for a huge sign for King Alfonso XIII's November 1906 visit, proclaiming "God Save King Alfonso", in English, seen in the Plaza de la Candelaria. It was above a Cafe Belge (Belgian Cafe), premises named "The Standard" and, with a Union Jack draped over the top of the door. This still seems rather a surprising sight in Santa Cruz of the 1900s.

In 1889, those "Brits abroad" - described as the British colony - in Tenerife had gathered to celebrate Queen Victoria's birthday. Colony is right: all "jolly afternoon tea and hats", but still uncomfortably just like the British Raj in India.

Saturday, 10 March 2007

Tajinastes at the base of Teide, Tenerife

Tajinastes in the Teide National Park Mataparda [CC BY-SA 2.0]

As if all the fantastic shapes of the rocks around the Teide National Park weren't enough, nature goes and does these marvelous things with the plants too.

Tajinaste rojo (Echium wildpretii) is the name given in the Canary Islands to some species, generally endemic to the islands, of plants of the genus Echium. The name comes from the language of the aborigines (Guanches) and has pervaded until the present day. A large number of tajinastes in a group that forms a little forest of them, is called a tajinastal. The tajinaste rojo (red tajinaste) is endemic to the island of Tenerife and is found mainly in the Teide National Park. The plant blooms from late spring to early summer in Tenerife and, as the video below shows, it was flowering last year in June, which would indicate that this may be a good time of year to come to see them.


Tajinastes en la base del Teide - Junio / June de 2006

Friday, 2 March 2007

Carnaval in Buenavista del Norte, Tenerife

Sardine effigy and "inconsolable" widows in Buenavista del Norte

Los Cristianos is not the only place holding it's carnaval this week. While the tiny hamlet of Teno Alto, in the municipality of Buenavista, held it's annual carnaval event, the Baile de la Piñata, last Saturday, February 24th, this week also there are carnaval events going on in the town of Buenavista del Norte.

There was a infant carnival festival on February 28th, in the town centre's municipal cine-theatre and there was a parade of kids in costume.

Slated as this year's novelty, on 2 Mar 2007, is an exhibition of "matar la culebra" in the Plaza de Los Remedios. We're intrigued. Translated literally, it means "to kill the snake", but betting that this "ancestral Canarian tradition with a marked Afro-Cuban origin" had nothing whatsoever to do with slimy serpents, we discover that this is a dance. After the snake has been done in (figuratively), from 8 p.m., are performances by a folklore group from La Laguna, a visiting group from El Golfo on the island of El Hierro and by murga group, Los que son son. The night will be finished off with dancing to local orchestra, La Caprichosa.

Earlier, the carnival's main parade took place in the main streets.

But, without doubt, says the press release, one of the most popular events of the carnaval in Buenavista del Norte, is the "Burial of the Sardine", this year on Saturday, March 3rd, from 8 p.m., from the Plaza de San Sebastián. The "inconsolable" widows will gather there to accompany the defunct sardine as the funeral retinue passes through the main streets of the town until it arrives in the central, Plaza de Los Remedios, where it will be cremated. R.I.P.





There's no age limit to enjoying carnival!

Monday, 19 February 2007

Playmates who didn't live to age 50

The news of the death of Playmate Anna Nicole Smith, seems to have sparked discussion about about the many Playmates who have made the headlines for their untimely deaths.

I suppose, the kind of lifestyle a Playmate leads, generally tends towards adventure and more risk.

However, until a commenter pointed it out, I'd not been aware that someone with "celebrity status" had died in the runway collision at Tenerife in 1977.

Here is the article, which talks about the grisly club of Playmates who didn't live to age 50. As Anna Nicole joins a macabre list, it also mentions "Eve Meyer, a 1955 Playmate, was one of more than 550 people killed when two airliners collided on takeoff at Tenerife in the Canary Islands in 1977. She was 46."

Eve Meyer (born December 13, 1928 in Griffin, Georgia, died March 27, 1977) was an American pin-up model, motion picture actor and, later, film producer. Much of her work was done in conjunction with exploitation filmmaker Russ Meyer to whom she was married from April 2, 1952 until 1969.

Thursday, 15 February 2007

Belén Esteban crowned Queen of Booing

Belén Esteban as a low budget Madonna

While it was probably a fact that, after all the controversy that led up to it, many watched the gala already predisposed to dislike it, I doubt even Rafael Amargo's (amargo means bitter) worst critics could have expected such an insulting, pathetic and ridiculous bungle. Or, to put it in the words of one viewer, "Rafael Amargo should be led out at dawn and shot! It was so bad it was funny." 

I sat through the 3 hr 40 min spectacle, transfixed, thinking it could never get any worse, but it did. That it kept getting worse was its only consistent feature.

News reports also called it a ridiculous spectacle and public opinion seems to be unanimous in this evaluation of the event, with even the mayor of Santa Cruz, Miguel Zerolo, who participated in a phone-in program on TV this morning said it was a "fracaso" (failure) and was more like an Operación Triunfo (Star Academy) gala than a Carnival Gala. One could say that he recognized the wisdom of saying that first, before he was publicly lynched over it. Just as Rafael Amargo himself must have concluded, having, reportedly, left the venue 45 minutes before the gala's end. The public booed and whistled and winning murga group, Los Diablos Locos (The Crazy Devils), refused to participate and walked off the stage during the live event - the public's favourite part of the show. 



Video: Los Diablos Locos walk off and the crowd goes wild.

Then the public booed Los Cariocas, who followed them, because they did participate. Unfairly, I think, as I did notice that they (or someone) had decided to bring the most "buxom" girls on first - obviously in pointed defiance of Amargo's "castings" to weed out "the fat ones and the ones who can't dance."

Whilst I won't criticize anyone's individual performance (I've been on stage enough times myself), what was clear was that there were too many acts; they were not of the "international calibre" we were told to expect - neither Rosa, nor Gloria Gaynor, nor an "international artist" materialized - most of them had nothing whatsoever to do with Carnaval either and, the whole show was disjointed with pregnant pauses or murdered in cold blood by the wrong style of music, wrong tempo, etc., at all the wrong times. No, I lied. I will criticize the performance of Belén Esteban, the show's all time low point. She didn't so much emulate Madona, as emulate a pole dancer in a sleazy club. She was embarrassing cavorting in a pink leotard and about as sexy as a wet fish.

They had five presenters, sorry six if you add Bibiana Fernández (Bibí Andersen), along with the unannounced Xavi Deltell (who could have done it better alone), yet, the candidates for the title of Carnaval Queen had to announce themselves, via videos. They say that the sound on those was so bad in the congress centre that it left people none the wiser, well, it wasn't much better on TV either.

At the end, the envelope with the winners was delayed, Bibí practically had to calm an imminent riot and the announcement of the winner - Elizabet Garcia representing El Dia - was so overshadowed as to look like an afterthought.



Video: The end of the fiasco as Bibi calls for calm.

If anyone did catch this awful spectacle on international TV channels, all I can hope is that they switched over quickly enough so that the images will not have left a lasting impression. This was not representative of Tenerife's Carnaval.

Abucheos en la gala de la Reina de Tenerife

Bitterness continues over Carnaval Gala

Whenever Tenerife gets into a bit of a controversy, it never does it by halves! And the plot thickens over the disastrous Gala for the Selection of the Carnaval Queen that took place in Santa Cruz on Wednesday night. Now, it seems that the town hall are asking (maybe begging might be more accurate) Spanish Television to edit out the negative aspects before showing it at national level.

This, actually, seems to me to be a pointless exercise in futility, since those very aspects are the ones that have already been picked out and commented on by national programs and, there are a plethora of clips at YouTube and elsewhere online, already doing the rounds of the planet, as people discuss them using words like embarrassing, pathetic or stupid, or the more direct, "pure shit." That's not forgetting that there are some 100 members of the national and international press and media in the Tenerife capital currently for the carnival, who will have seen it first hand and are bound to have reported on it already.

It's also a good job there were 18 candidates, otherwise, if they do edit the program down to just the positive and relevant parts, there wouldn't be much left.

Meanwhile, Rafael Amargo, who directed the fiasco, seems to be the only person who is "satisfied with the work done" and is already defending himself - in a note signed by his representation - saying that he "scrupulously fulfilled the conditions of his contract with the fiesta organizers". He would say that. The town hall are talking about finding the legal means to not only deduct an "important" amount from his outstanding fees, but also considering suing the dancer for damages.

Popular Party candidate for mayor in Santa Cruz says that the whole Carnaval fiasco over the last few days was just a manoeuvre to draw attention away from the problems the current mayor, Miguel Zerolo, has with the law.

For others, the real problem, it has been said - adding yet more gross insult to serious injury - is that we simpletons in Tenerife didn't appreciate the gala's content as we just wouldn't know art when we see it. So, I'll leave you with a little piece of that "art", as performed by "artist" Belén Esteban - who, for overseas viewers who are unaware, has only one previous claim to fame: that she slept with a bullfighter. What do you think, did we miss something in this "outstanding performance"? The original version I had of this performance - since deleted from the web - appeared to have been manipulated in that you could hear applause and laughter in the background. Watching live, all you heard was booing.

Belén Esteban crowned Queen of Booing

There are many articles online saying that the Carnaval in Tenerife in 2007 will always be remembered for controversy and, which "crown" Belén Esteban as the "Queen of Booing" at the hapless Gala for the Selection of the Carnaval Queen.

Poor girl, she says, "I feel bad, because they've never booed me before".

Well, there's always a first time for everything love! Being "crucified", seems to me, to invite it really, but ... It seems she's been pouting on TV about her ill fortune too. I'm so glad I've missed that, but Colin Davies in Galicia sums it up nicely:
"Needless to say, the goings-on down in Tenerife provided un-missable material for the endless TV gossip shows. The one I was unlucky enough to zap into offered us the inane musings of one of the performers who’d been received badly. Having seen the act in question, it was clear her ego was in inverse proportion to her talents so I was rather nonplussed by her celebrity status. Plus, she was rather ugly and clearly very reconstructed from her [blond] hair down. I later learned she was the ex-girlfriend of a bullfighter. And possessed of a big mouth. In Spain, this explains everything."
Oh and in the edited version of the Gala televised very late on Saturday night by TVE1, probably against the wishes of the Santa Cruz town hall who wanted the damaging parts cut, Esteban's crucifying performance was shown again.

This also made the list of Los 7 momentos más ridículos de Belén Esteban (The 7 Most Ridiculous Moments of Belén Esteban), where at number 5, it says, "Nobody will forget the boos and insults that Esteban suffered at the carnival in Santa Cruz de Tenerife in 2007, when [s]he imitated Madonna on stage." You too may be wondering, afraid to look, at the four more ridiculous moments!

Wednesday, 14 February 2007

Santa Cruz de Tenerife Carnival Queen 2007

Elizabet García Carnival Queen in Santa Cruz de Tenerife 2007

Carnival Queen in Santa Cruz de Tenerife in 2007 was Elizabet García (21), with "Miss Dior", designed by Leo Martínez and representing newspaper El Día.

In 2007, the court was made up as follows:

  1. 1st Maid of Honour: Claritza González Pérez, with a costume entitled “Bella-Bellísima”, representing Centro Comercial Meridiano and designed by Saliarca Creativos.
  2. 2nd Maid of Honour: Ariana Álvarez Cáceres, with a costume entitled “Bun Bun para Bin Ban Bun”, representing Grupo AC Bingo Colombófilo and designed by Juan Carlos Armas.
  3. 3rd Maid of Honour: Jessica Gómez Panza, with a costume entitled “Masai-Mara”, representing Tubillete.com and designed by Carmas II.
  4. 4th Maid of Honour: Gilary Fariña Fariña, with a costume entitled “Entre espumas, la fantasía de tu voz” (Between foams, the fantasy of your voice), representing Centro Comercial Alcampo - La Laguna and designed by Juan Carlos Armas.
The theme of carnival in Santa Cruz de Tenerife in 2007 was 'Fashion'. 

Carnaval in Tenerife in 2007 will, sadly, always be remembered for the controversy and, which "crowned" Belén Esteban as the "Queen of Booing" at the hapless Gala for the Selection of the Carnaval Queen. Known as "The Bitter Carnival", due to the negative prominence acquired by the director of the gala: Rafael Amargo (amargo means bitter), the gala itself that was nothing more than a parade of "reality" characters and "trash TV" with Belén Estéban performing a cheap imitation of Madonna. The occasional singer had nothing to do with the usual rhythm and music typical of carnival and almost no carnival groups could participate, which is traditional and kinda the whole point. Amargo had promised to make a great show with a performance by stars such as Jennifer López or Ricky Martín. He not only failed to acquire a star of such calibre, but afterwards dedicated himself to insulting the city in any medium of communication, accusing them of being inept and uneducated for not understanding his show. It was considered by many as the worst carnival gala in history in Tenerife.