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The most detailed English language website on the island ...
... the most detailed English language website on the island.

After more than 20 years, posts here will now only be occasional (see why) for big events such as Tenerife Carnaval, so please "Like" and follow our Facebook Page because that's where to see future updates.

Thursday, 19 March 2009

A complete idiots guide to Tenerife

Tenerife's elephants at the Loro Parque. Photo: Gerald England.

From research carried out by The Association for British Travel Agents (ABTA) and Thomas Cook, The Telegraph this week has compiled a list (via Boing Boing) of 20 ridiculous complaints made by holidaymakers (obviously, a companion guide to their 20 stupid questions asked by tourists.) Stories like this make me want to crawl into a hole or apologise profusely for being British, but it helps one to understand why people have some pretty weird perceptions about Tenerife, when you discover that this is the way some folk's brains work.

So, for those who still harbour misconceptions, here are answers to just some of people's stupid questions, as they might apply to Tenerife:
 
Lots of the sand in Tenerife is black. It's not yellow (except the imported bits) and it's not white. It's black and this doesn't mean it's dirty. It may still be too sandy for some people, but the colour is a bonus, designed so you can see the grains in your egg sandwiches (paraphrasing TV presenter Juliet Morris on a visit to Puerto de la Cruz.)

You'll generally have to leave the resort to see too many (Canarian) Spanish people in Tenerife! It only takes about 4 hours to fly back to the UK (depending which airport) from Tenerife, about the same amount of time as it took to get there. And, if it makes you feel better, it will take the Americans much longer, because it's their turn to cross the pond

You'll need swimming trunks (or cozzies) and towels at water parks, because the water in Tenerife is still wet.

Ray Ban sunglasses bought from street vendors in Tenerife are still fake.

Al Campo, La Villa Shopping Centre in La Orotava

Shopkeepers are often still lazy (!) and take siestas in towns and cities like La Laguna and Santa Cruz, but have no fear they're far too keen to take your money in the big shopping malls or the resorts to slack off at these times.

Putting a 3,718 meter / 12,200 foot volcano in Los Rodeos flight path was not the cause of the 1977 disaster.

There's no lake at La Laguna (it means lagoon, or lake), nowadays, but you can find man-made lakes at Erjos where you can go bird watching. But the Teide National Park was not man-made! And all of the caves and galleries are underground. Get used to seeing topless, bottomless and totally naked sunbathers. As well as naked male hikers, apparently.

Unlike Wales, Tenerife is not closed in winter: it's Eternally Spring year round.

The mosquitos still bite in Tenerife and, while it's not considered a risk area for humans (for neither malaria nor West Nile virus), for those of you who live on the island and have pets, it IS inside a risk area for heartworm

Don't worry, there won't be fish in the sea for long, if the authorities get their way and contaminate it with their industrial port in Granadilla.

They don't turn the mist off in the island's Laurisilva cloud forests, ever.

Scottish shortbread on sale in Al Campo, La Villa.

They do sell proper biscuits like custard creams or ginger nuts in Tenerife, as well as Bourbons, many other brands you'll recognize and whole racks of Scottish shortbread, for some unknown reason. (Ironically, their own - French - brand English Breakfast Tea is the nicest I've had anywhere in the world.) 

There are a LOT of hills and some dodgy pavement surfaces in Tenerife, so you might not want to wear high heels, unless you're a bloke at Carnaval, of course.

Queuing is a whole lot different, more relaxed and casual, in Tenerife, but if it's being done outside, you'll still find that there's no air conditioning!

To get from one Canary Island to another, you should catch the same type of bus as you might to get from the Orkney Islands to the Shetland Islands!

Mojo sauce spread over Canarian wrinkly potatoes

If you don't like spicy food at all, you're in luck in Tenerife, because the locals seem to be scared stiff of it too. Just steer clear of the red mojo sauce.

People (women, mostly) get pregnant in Tenerife in much the same way as they do anywhere else in the world and still just as unexpectedly (but if you stay on the island to have the baby, you'll find the level of care far exceeds the UK.)

Sorry, we don't have any information about Samantha Fox's boobs either, but apparently we did have some data concerning Jennifer Lopez' bum.

A Playa is not where the Gangstas live in Tenerife. Actually, scratch that!

And, finally if you're a man of a sensitive nature, coming to Tenerife for your honeymoon, you'll be relieved to know that the elephants pictured above are the only ones we know of in Tenerife (at the Loro Parque) and, hopefully, that's as aroused as they'll ever get.

Friday, 27 February 2009

Piñata Weekend in Santa Cruz de Tenerife

The Piñata provides the finale to the party

Shrove Tuesday is the climax of carnival frivolities in the strictly religious sense and the Burial of the Sardine on Ash Wednesday was once intended to denote the end of hedonistic festivities and the beginning of Lent, but Carnival in Santa Cruz de Tenerife doesn't stop then ... as the Piñata Weekend provides a fitting finale. Although the live music of Daytime Carnaval is what's being promoted most about the final weekend of carnival in Santa Cruz these days, there are other events.

Coso Infantil - Children's Carnaval Parade

One I highly recommend is the Coso Infantil (Children's Carnaval Parade). It's like the big parade, but with lots of added cuteness. This used to be held on the Saturday, but once the Daytime Carnival had become established, it was moved to the Friday afternoon (from about 6 pm) so kids could enjoy both. 

Sábado de Piñata - Carnaval de Día

Sábado de Piñata (Saturday), in Santa Cruz the most important Carnaval de Día (Daytime Carnaval) in the world will be taking place. That might be because it's the only designated daytime carnival in the world - we haven't checked - but nevertheless an afternoon full of spectacular shows can be expected in the Plazas del Príncipe, La Candelaria and on the Avenida Anaga. 

Concurso de coches antiguos - Classic Cars

On the Sunday morning, is a Gran Concurso en la Ciudad de Automóviles Antiguos (Gathering of Vintage Cars), which meets at the Parque García Sanabria (see map) from 10 a.m. Then at mid-day, these beautiful old cars, with occupants in period costume, make a circuit of the city, through the streets of Numancia, Pilar, Plaza del Príncipe, Villalba Hervás, La Marina, Avenidas de Anaga and Marítima, ending at the Club Náutico de Tenerife (see map).

There are end of carnival parties and usually a fireworks finale on the Sunday.

Wednesday, 18 February 2009

Santa Cruz de Tenerife Carnival Queen 2009

Carnaval Queen in Santa Cruz de Tenerife in 2009 Ana María Tavárez Mata

Carnaval Queen in Santa Cruz de Tenerife in 2009 was Ana María Tavárez Mata, with a costume entitled "Embrujada" (Bewitched) designed by Leo Martínez and representing newspaper El Día.

The court was made up as follows:

  1. 1st Maid of Honour: Raquel de Ara Carballo, with a costume entitled "Vuelvo de La Guaira en correíllo cargada de loros stop besos Concha" (I return from La Guaira in a Correíllo loaded with parrots, stop, kisses Concha), representing Centro Comercial Santa Cruz Carrefour and designed by Santi Castro.
  2. 2nd Maid of Honour: Leonor Barreto Fuentes, with a costume entitled "Aria de amor" (Aria of love), representing Centro Comercial Meridiano and designed by Saliarca Creativos.
  3. 3rd Maid of Honour: Gisela Dorta Melo, with a costume entitled "This is for you, I love you, Thank you", representing Centro Comercial Alcampo - La Laguna and designed by Juan Carlos Armas.
  4. 4th Maid of Honour: Nuria Niebla Plasencia, with a costume entitled "Nirvana", representing Tranvía de Tenerife and designed by Santi Castro.
The theme of carnival in Santa Cruz de Tenerife was El cine de Terror (Horror Cinema). Known as "The Anti-crisis Carnival", the main stage at the The Tenerife International Centre for Trade Fairs and Congresses, was scaled back and completely flat, without sculpted or modelled elements. Its decoration was based on large format prints, with traditional motifs from the first horror movies. 

The Official Carnival song that year was "Chicharrero de Corazón", by the Murga Ni Pico Ni Corto, becoming the first song by a carnival group to be the official song for these fiestas, and which had a tremendous reception at the Gala of the Carnival Queen, being danced and sung by all the carnival troupes of Tenerife. The "Ave Satani" (satanic hymn from the horror movie The Omen, could be heard several times in the introduction to the gala. 

Thursday, 1 January 2009

Tenerife Carnival Dates for 2009

2009 Poster for Santa Cruz de Tenerife Carnival

A poster design was chosen early in 2008 for the Santa Cruz de Tenerife Carnaval 2009, which on it's own would not be monstrous news, but the report also announced the theme: El cine de terror (Horror Films). They were getting an unprecedented move on, as carnival is going to get "exterior promotion without precedents." With that prospect, we're sure the carnival will indeed be monstrous - as in huge. The design, chosen from among 111 entries, is by Gonzalo Luis Álvarez Fernández and entitled "Bailarina Monstruosa" (Monstrous Dancer).

Yes, we're fully aware that the poster depicts Herman Munster in a bra and tutu, with pink wings borrowed off a Christmas angel, but believe us when we tell you that such an outfit would be considered quite conservative at carnival!

Dates of Santa Cruz de Tenerife Carnaval 2009
  • Election of the Carnival Queen on Wednesday, February 18th, 2009
  • Opening parade of carnival: Friday, February 20th, 2009
  • Santa Cruz main parade on Shrove TuesdayFebruary 24th, 2009
  • The Burial of the Sardine on Wednesday, February 25th, 2009
  • The final weekend, therefore falling on Saturday, February 28th, 2009 and Sunday, March 1st, when Santa Cruz Carnaval ends.
(Always providing that the authorities don't alter the dates or that the weather doesn't, but we can't be held responsible for these outside issues.)

Public Holidays in Tenerife 2009

Agenda

Public holidays in Tenerife, in 2009, are the following:
  • 1 January, Año Nuevo (New Year's Day)
  • 6 January, Epifanía del Señor (Epiphany / Three Kings Day)
  • 2 FebruaryVirgen de la Candelaria (Candlemas)
  • 9 April, Jueves Santo (Easter Thursday)
  • 10 April, Viernes Santo (Good Friday)
  • 1 May, Fiesta del Trabajo (Labour Day)
  • 30 May, Día de Canarias (Canaries Day)
  • 15 August, Asunción de la Virgen (Assumption of the Virgin)
  • 12 October, Fiesta Nacional de España (National Day of Spain)
  • 7 December, (in lieu) Día de la Constitución (Constitution Day)
  • 8 December, Inmaculada Concepción (Immaculate Conception)
  • 25 December, Natividad del Señor (Christmas Day)
And as well as these 12 days established by law [1], there are also a further 2 days given each year as local holidays, which differ from one district to the next.

[1] That alone makes public holidays in Spain a different from Bank Holidays in the UK, where "There is no automatic right to time off on these days."

Wednesday, 31 December 2008

Celebrating the New Year in Tenerife

Lucky Grapes
Grapes growing in the backyard

On New Year's Eve, Nochevieja (which translates better to Old Year's Night), or San Silvestre as it is called in Spain, celebrations revolve around the eating of the grapes at midnight. The idea is to eat twelve Uvas de la Suerte ("lucky" grapes), one grape on each chime of the clock - all suitably, and necessarily, washed down with Cava: Spanish bubbly - a tradition that's believed to have come from the ancient wine-growers. One way to encourage consumption, I guess.

The New Year is heralded in Spain via the twelve chimes from the Puerta del Sol in Madrid: an hour later in the Canaries (actually, the same time as the UK) (confusingly, twice on TV, if you watch a Spanish channel and then a Canarian one) or locally, mostly with those of the Cabildo (Island Corporation) in Santa Cruz in Tenerife or their counterpart in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria

New Year's Eve is a night for going out. Right after the chimes, there will usually be fireworks and in many places, there will be a street-party with dancing to a Salsa band or a disco. Another custom, or superstition, but even those who aren't superstitious will probably observe it "just in case", is to wear new clothes for this party, which symbolises starting the year from scratch. You should also wear red underwear because it's the colour of happiness and good luck.

In Santa Cruz, the Plaza de España will be packed with people and atmosphere if you're looking for fun, as will the church square in Los Cristianos, in the south.

But most large and even small towns have New Years' parties. In Garachico, we've danced to an open air disco (yeah, Jan 1 in the open air, at night, te he) in the town square in front of the bandstand and watched the fireworks set off from the Town Hall roof. There were "party bags" (consisting of silly hat, noise makers and packet of grapes) laid on for anyone who turned up. And you get to keep company with the big fish in these small ponds, as the Mayor was host.

Sunday, 21 December 2008

Santa Cruz Changes Names of City Streets

Rambla de Santa Cruz, formerly Rambla del General Franco Koppchen, CC BY 3.0

Street names are changing this week, after the mayor signed a decree changing the names of eight (out of more than 100) of the streets with names that had something to do with the Franco era, in accordance with the Ley de la Memoria Histórica (Historical Memory Law.) The names that changed are as follows:

Old Street Name New Street Name Translation
Rambla del General Franco Rambla de Santa Cruz Holy Cross Way
Avenida José Antonio Avenida Marítima Maritime Avenue
Avenida del General Mola Avenida Islas Canarias Canary Islands Avenue
Calle General Moscardó Calle Del Amor Love Street
Calle General Goded Calle Del Perdón Forgiveness Street
Calle General Fanjul Calle Del Olvido Forgetfulness Street
Calle General Sanjurjo Calle De los Sueños Dreams Street
Calle García Morato Calle De la Tolerancia Tolerance Street

The new names have been chosen partly in consultation with residents, but we can't help thinking that the choice of the last five of those street names isn't, entirely random or accidental. There are, of course, numerous opinions on this. There are those who think that changing the names is actually sweeping the bad stuff under the carpet: that once gone, this ugly history will be forgot.